A New Direction for Ann Demeulemeester

The 2025 runway show, orchestrated by designer Stefano Gallici, reflects a thoughtful exploration of the Ann Demeulemeester brand’s identity. Striking a balance between innovation and tradition, Gallici aims to reintegrate the brand into the fashion landscape by experimenting with familiar concepts, rather than venturing into completely untested territory.

Key Features of the Collection

This season, the collection showcases a blend of disassembled tailoring and romantic elements. Designers draw on a variety of influences:

• 19th Century Romanticism: The collection incorporates romantic frills, raw edges, and layers, tapping into a historical aesthetic.
• Indie and Artistic Influences: The designs reflect the creative spirit of indie artists, who blend fashion with an avant-garde ethos.
• Minimally Styled Silhouettes: Gallici’s minimalist pieces are notable for their serious undertones, merging styles reminiscent of Western garments and traditional Hasidic attire.

Personal Touches and Inspirations

In the lead-up to the show, Gallici infused the collection with personal symbols that narrate his journey and inspirations:

• The influence of Georgia O’Keeffe and her ascetic lifestyle in New Mexico inspired a palette that evokes desert landscapes.
• Worn denim and Southwestern aesthetics were prominent, reflecting his travels across America.
• Unique accessories, such as a miniature metal notebook crafted to hold personal reflections, embody the theme of dreaming and introspection.

Gallici described his brand as “a brand for dreamers,” showcasing his intent to blend fashion with a narrative of aspiration and emotional resonance.

Expanding Horizons Towards Los Angeles

The geographic influences of the brand appear to be shifting from Antwerp to Los Angeles, signified by a collaboration with Ray-Ban. This move underscores a broader creative journey that Gallici is keen to embrace.

He stated, “I love losing my path during my collection because when I lose my path, I find a new path and this brings me to a new place that excites me and makes me emotional.” This perspective emphasizes his willingness to explore and innovate within his collections.