A Shift in Direction

Shanghai Fashion Week has traditionally showcased the “new Chinese style,” which celebrated traditional attire and aesthetics. However, recent events have shifted this focus towards a more globally appealing free chic style, with designers exploring narratives that resonate across cultures.

Xuzhi Chen: Celebrating a Decade of Design

Xuzhi Chen reemerged at Shanghai Fashion Week, marking the 10th anniversary of his eponymous label. A graduate of Central St. Martins, Chen honed his craft at renowned fashion houses like Craig Green and JW Anderson. His accomplishments include nominations for prestigious awards such as the LVMH and Woolmark Awards.

Blending Cultures: Chen’s Unique Interpretation

Chen’s designs offer a fresh perspective on the traditional concept of “chic.” Drawing inspiration from the legendary Jane Birkin, he imbued his collection with elements of Eastern aesthetics while maintaining a distinct Western flair. The result is a harmonious blend featuring:

• Spacious balloon hems
• Intricate embroidery and beadwork
• Decorative elements such as Chinese crystals and medals

Focus on Menswear

Chen predominantly showcased menswear in his latest collection, a challenging endeavor in a fashion world often orbited around women’s narratives. His take on Bohemian styles for men captured a cool and relaxed vibe, reminiscent of Caribbean aesthetics. Key pieces included:

• Decorated jeans paired with crew neck sweaters
• Ultra-suede outerwear
• Suit designs featuring thin scarves

Embracing Tradition and Change

Chen expressed a desire to revisit the past while innovating for the present. “With so much of Chinese fashion has changed recently, I was thinking I’d go back to (making) my traditional fashion collections, which are very old schools,” he stated. He specifically drew inspiration from the 1920s, linking this collection to a sense of historical decadence while integrating elements from the 1970s.