Viktor & Rolf Reintroduce Ready-to-Wear with Couture-Driven Designs
Returning to Ready-to-Wear
Design duo Viktor Horsting and Rolf Snoeren have made headlines by returning to the ready-to-wear market, marking a significant shift from their exclusive focus on couture since 2015. Reflecting on their previous departure from Prêt-a-Porter, Horsting remarked on the limitations they faced, stating, “It’s a bit disappointing that in every experiment we do with couture, we don’t use it in a more wearable way.” This new venture is supported by OTB, akin to their earlier collections, rather than through licensing.
Understanding Couture and Its Reach
While it’s true that the audience for couture is limited, interest in high fashion continues to expand. Horsting emphasized that the distinction between bespoke and ready-made apparel lies not in cost, but in concept, asserting, “For us, couture is about ideas.” The designers aim to transform abstract concepts into wearable designs that bridge the gap between high fashion and practical clothing.
The Role of Plasticity in Design
In this creative resurgence, Horsting noted that the approach is characterized by “plasticity” rather than rigid hierarchy. The duo has consistently employed exaggeration and bold silhouettes in their couture work, and they aim to translate this aesthetic into ready-to-wear. He explained, “You can use the same amount of fabric, but not the same technology,” suggesting that their ready-to-wear pieces will reflect the “wearable version of the couture sculpture proposal.”
Translating Couture Techniques into Ready-to-Wear
The new collection will retain couture patterns and techniques, resulting in a seamless integration of high fashion into everyday wear. Horsting stated, “It’s the same, it’s not,” indicating that the essence of couture is preserved while adapting to a more accessible form. For Fall 2024, they have introduced a collection featuring auto-abstract couture with a cubist influence, maintaining the square forms while softening internal supports to enhance drape and comfort.
Design Aesthetic and Future Collections
This upcoming collection reveals a focus on maintaining a “stricken, somewhat masculine sensation,” while also diversifying beyond traditional gender norms in daywear. Horsting highlighted that as the support system is removed, the design will produce a dynamic silhouette, offering a fresh take that departs from conventional wardrobe staples.
