It started with a trip to the Los Angeles County Museum of Art.
“My design team and I took a short trip to LACMA for the ‘History of Textiles: Textiles and Modern Abstraction’ exhibition,” Jonathan Simkhai explains over Zoom from his home in LA. This outing was the inspiration for a collection with both tactile and rational appeal. “Of course, I love different weaving techniques like embroidery and macrame,” Simkhai said. “But I like to pair them with something very pretty and sculpted. I like that tension, that dichotomy. Something soft and something sculpted, or something artful and something modern. .”
At the textured front, the black gown transforms from a structured bodice to a pleated ball skirt glued in a checkerboard-like pattern. The neckline and hem of the minidress are embellished with sequins, which are sewn to create a rounded, dimensional embellishment. “This is all about guipure embroidery techniques,” Simkhai said of the dress, which featured arranged motifs. “My grandfather had a lace factory, so I’m always trying to find ways to flip the guipure and embroidery to give it a different feel.”
With fall and spring collections making the “see now, buy now, wear now” fashion calendar nearly impossible, Simkhai aims to provide instant gratification before spring. I am. Draped jersey-like fabrics both for pre-holiday shipping and for use in fashion items. “You can wear it any time of the year,” he said of the textile, which is featured in an ombre midi dress with subtle shirring and shirring at the waist. Similarly, a braided fringe dress is an obvious choice for a holiday party, but it’s also appropriate after the New Year is over. Simkhai said the green is “limey and punchy,” adding, “It doesn’t really give off a holiday vibe.”
When we spoke, Simkhai was already engrossed in designing upcoming collections and was perfectly content to get on the fashion treadmill. “I’m really inspired by my clients,” he said. “They love fashion and they love seeing what’s going to happen next and what’s new. That really keeps me going.”
