One look at Anthony Vaccarello’s spring Saint Laurent pre-collection, which focuses on ties in all its myriad glory, and I can only think of one thing: I can even learn how to tie a tie. Is that so? Many years have passed. To be honest, that’s not all I’m thinking about. I’m also amazed at how Vaccarello makes formality (sort of his own twist) feel fresh, effortless, and appropriate for 2025. A wardrobe item that will last forever. Considering how rigorously we’re thinking about what we need to add to our wardrobes right now, this sly reinterpretation seems like the intuitive right thing to do for Vaccarello.
Let’s go back to the Vaccarello bond. And about how they aren’t always tied in knots. It is worn with a classic tie tied tightly at the neck, a crisp double-breasted jacket with a natural shoulder line, and high-waisted, always slightly cropped trousers. This update updates his suit worn with very sleek shoes. Your face will be shown virtually. Don’t even think about sneakers. It’s all business here.
Other times, his neckties morph into thin, winding strips of silk fabric that are casually intertwined. They wear their shirts with a few more buttons undone than they are currently accustomed to, along with striped, paisley, and polka dot shirts. Sometimes the scarf, shirt, and pants all have the same pattern. For the Prince of Wales check, it’s a new suit! It’s back!
Apparently, the attire for the big night is similar, and even the necktie has its own thing. It is a fluffy, poetic, and even romantic bow shaped like a Grand Admiral. It has the same slim silhouette as his daytime tailoring, giving the cut of his black suit a final sparkle. Here, Vaccarello emphasizes his knack for rethinking smoking, which founder Yves Saint Laurent single-handedly brought into the fashion conversation decades ago. In fact, the collection is overseen by Monsieur Saint Laurent himself, with Vaccarello once again tapping into the house founder’s personal style. Ties, tailoring, nonchalance, and a touch of erotic vulgarity. Everything is pure YSL.
This is an interesting and useful idea to pursue. Because while Yves Saint Laurent was radicalizing fashion for women, his own style similarly reflected changing attitudes and mores towards and about men. If you look at images of him from the late ’60s and early ’70s, the way he put himself together is perfect. It also reflects how the world is changing, relaxing, rejecting traditional masculinity, and embracing individual sexuality. When Vaccarello looks back, it’s not just a stylistic appropriation from the past. Whatever he brings to the present has to look and feel right for today. And all of this definitely applies.
