While sales for many luxury brands around the world appear to be flat, Officine Generale finds itself in a relatively enviable position. Whether it’s a well-thought-out sweater in the right gauge in Parisian navy, a cropped bomber with a shiny finish, or tailored trousers in stand-up denim, loyalists are very clear about what they want and what fits their lifestyle. I have a base. It’s a step or two above streetwear. The brand also pays close attention to the quality-to-price ratio, so customers don’t have to wonder if a sweater is worth spending four figures on. Founder and Creative Director Pierre Maheo says he would never go there himself, so why would he do that to someone else?
During a visit to Officine Generale’s showroom on the Left Bank, the designer described the pre-collection as “a very interesting psychological and technical exercise. It always involves a lot of limitation and reflection, but at the same time the result is very ” I like doing that because it has to be ‘See and Buy Now’. ” he offered.
Case in point: T-shirts, lightweight knits, merino or cashmere sweaters, organic poplin shirts and other perennials known as everyday classics were quietly introduced to men in branded boutiques and e-commerce shortly after the pandemic. This season, the brand has expanded its category to include women’s wear, with both lineups appearing side by side for the first time in pre-fall.
These pieces in grey, blue, khaki, white and beige are seasonal must-haves, including check jackets with frayed edges, versatile goat suede jackets and, for men, pants cut like a jean-chino hybrid. Blends seamlessly with items. Standouts included sharp-looking tennis-striped pants and matching jackets, as well as structured outerwear that worked on either side of the rack. A maroon work jacket with a contrasting collar looked strong, as did a khaki windbreaker. The whole recipe works because it looks good without changing anything.
Still, Maheo is giving his team room to get a little creative with colors and prints this season, incorporating rust, lilac, and 1970s-inspired tie-dye. Certain customers can pull off these total looks. For others, there’s always the option of toning down the volume with white jeans, a navy sweater, or smooth trousers that never go out of style.
