Trend Among Models in London
In London, it has become somewhat unusual for models to pose with their fingers tucked into their waistbands. This pose may evoke erotic or confrontational interpretations, as evidenced in the shows by Nuba and Dipessa, as well as Stephen Cook’s lookbook. However, designer Natasha Zinko has connected this gesture to a more innocent sentiment. “It’s about feeling safe and comfortable in a time of uncertainty,” she explained during a preview of her fall collection. “Like you stay home and relax in your favorite pajamas.” This season’s collection seems to draw inspiration from a heap of old, dependable garments taken from the laundry basket.
Emphasis on Comfort
Zinko showcased her unique interpretation of comfort. Even her evening wear took on a fresh twist, providing options for celebrities like Doja Cat to consider for red carpet appearances. The line featured layered pieces that resembled upcycled garments paired with oversized maxi skirts and voluminous crinoline skirts. One standout ensemble included a paneled corset integrated into a fleece polo shirt, revealing various pattern lines beneath a fleece dress. Additionally, a bow-shaped accessory was ingeniously created from sweatpants legs, and classic tailored trousers were cleverly combined with another pair of Houndstooth pants, reflecting a recurring theme in the collection.
Playful Denim Designs
The collection also included playful denim, described as carnival-like, suggesting that they had been worn extensively. Zinko’s team humorously remarked, “We could probably run a marathon.” Interestingly, the jersey hoodie emerged as the most constricting piece, with its design restricting the wearer’s arms within dual external sleeves that were attached to kangaroo pockets.
Reflections on a Decade
Zinko was among several designers absent from the runway this season, stating, “I had time to think about the past decade.” She reflected on her previous work and how it aligns with the “failed” aesthetics currently being explored. The brand has undergone significant transformations over the years, especially since stylist Betsy Johnson began her consultancy. While Zinko has not exhibited signs of an identity crisis, witnessing designers reconnecting with their foundational elements felt authentic to the brand’s origins.
Nostalgic Revival
The collection included pieces reminiscent of Jinko’s earlier days, featuring a sequin dress, a lace-trimmed negrid, floral satin bombers, and bubble hem minis. These designs evoked a sense of nostalgia for the 2010s, characterized by a youthful, feminine aesthetic. The former brand’s deadstock label was also integrated into a pale pink, double-layer baby tee, blending history with modernity.
Lighthearted Touch
While many of these whimsical touches may not align perfectly with Zinko’s established identity, they serve to soften the brand’s overall emotional resonance. By incorporating both playful and nostalgic elements, the collection offers a refreshing contrast that speaks to a broader audience and invites a sense of comfort in these uncertain times.
