Editor’s note: It’s been a big year for Marc Jacobs. Marc Jacobs celebrates 40 years in the fashion world and becomes American Vogue’s first guest editor. We conclude 2024 with an archival look back at the designer’s career. This Fall 1994 collection, presented at a Soho loft in April 1994, has been digitized as part of Vogue Runway’s ongoing efforts to document the history of fashion shows.
This was Marc Jacobs’ return show. Shortly after launching his infamous grunge collection for Perry Ellis in 1992, the brand decided to stop selling womenswear and the designer took a sabbatical. During that period, he told Elsa Krensch, “I had time to think about what I really love.” Hearts, which appear throughout the collection, seemed to be one of his objects of affection, as did diamond brooches in the shape of letters and numbers. The latter was cheekily used to write a phone number on a smoking file worn by Amber Valletta. Jacobs went for the mad mix with a leopard print skirt, electric blue sweater and taxi yellow jacket. Kate Moss’ LBD was accessorized with fur-covered earmuffs. There was plenty of latex, but there were also customized Fair Isles, a Valentine red knit dress with diamante spaghetti straps, a laminated A-line mini, and an ice-melting skate dress. Suffice it to say, Jacobs was playing with ladies and vamps and the notions of good and bad taste. He told Vogue that his process was “all a crazy combination.” Nowadays anything is popular. ”
The designer was certainly back with the playfulness intact, just as Vogue magazine was buzzing about “bringing the fun back into fashion.” The magazine ran a four-page editorial about the collection, calling it a “colorful character,” and Bloomingdale’s Cal Rutenstein called it “an entirely new way of dressing, perfect for the ’90s and a great comeback for Mark.” declared.
