Daniela Kallmeyer’s namesake brand is known for its cool tailoring and casual ease, but the designer doesn’t subscribe to an aesthetic credo of quiet luxury. “People have used[the word]as a way of saying that if something looks simple or plain and elitist, then it must be luxury,” says the Chinatown showroom promise. she said in it. “For me, luxury has always been about moments of personalization, craft and expertise, so I wanted to explore that with this collection.”
Kallmeyer said she looks to the works of Cristóbal Balenciaga, Pierre Cardin and Fortuny for inspiration, which at first seems at odds with her modern, practical approach to dressing. However, everything went well. Her tailored separates were completely transformed with the use of silk taffeta. A new version of the A-line silhouette cropped jacket and the brand’s It pants, the Clemence is a standout with a drawstring waistband and gorgeously draped, contoured pant legs for a sporty ease. while still referencing vintage charm.
Pre-autumn means summer, so there was also a beach vibe, a nod to her memories of spending time in Positano when she was “18 or 19.” A devilish sensuality in the kaftan, scarf top and pleated layered skirt made from “8 Years” fabric, paired with a matching cardigan made from the lightest and freshest bright yellow silk chiffon. is infused and allows for simple shifting. This mint liquid silk princess-seamed dress was created to elongate your legs on warm summer days.
Color is another place where Kallmayer has injected newness. The persimmon, aquamarine, and goldenrod palette came from an exhibit she saw at the Getty Museum in Los Angeles about ancient Roman and Greek astronomical depictions. In the hands of another, less dexterous designer, all these various references could create a disjointed collection, but it expands Kallmeyer’s range, doubling down on the brand’s own DNA while also giving it an older, more appealing feel. (The lovely hooded taffeta track jacket pattern came from the brand’s first collection in 2013). “We’re minimal in the sense of being precise rather than ‘nothing,'” she said.
