Show Delays and Reflections
Yes, the show started 45 minutes late, but in the grand scheme of things, what does that matter compared to the history encompassing a century? The architect took a wrong turn while navigating a runway designed to mirror the Fendi atelier, where social salons were held. But isn’t it always difficult to part ways from a great celebration?
A Celebratory 100th Anniversary
Sylvia Fendi opened the Fendi show commemorating its 100th anniversary, invoking memories of the House of Fendi. She recalled her first appearance on the runway at just six years old in 1966 when Karl Lagerfeld encouraged her to model adorable equestrian attire. This evening, her grandchildren, Tazio and Dardo (both aged 6), opened the door to the recreated original Atelier Fendi at the end of the runway.
Generational Legacy
The presence of Tazio and Dardo highlighted that the show spanned five generations of the Fendi family. Although there were few direct references to individuals or archives, Sylvia emphasized that the designs were meant to express the “emotions and adrenaline” inherent to the Fendi legacy “through the code.” A leaning knit beanie showcased as a tribute to Adele, the founding mother of the house, symbolizes this connection. One visually striking detail was how the Chinyoung piece mirrored a horizontal figure-eight, symbolizing infinity.
Gender Interplay in Fashion
Women’s fashion often takes center stage, making coed presentations less effective. However, this show featured significant interaction between genders through mohair knits and wide-stripe patterns, alongside embroidered mink coats, cashmere polos, and inventive nail art. Certain menswear pieces, like the standout lemon-yellow coat bag created by Sylvia, were exceptional, though women’s fashion remained the focal point.
Fur’s Central Role and New Directions
The evening felt perfectly aligned as it celebrated a brand led by three generations of women, with Sylvia stepping onto the forefront of Fendi’s women’s fashion. Emphasizing the importance of fur to Fendi, Sylvia showcased collarless coats and dresses adorned with removable furry layers, demonstrating respect for these creations. Most of the featured fur coats, aside from one zigzag mink, utilized shearling. In a press conference, the newly appointed CEO announced plans to launch a new “Fur Atelier” at Fendi’s Milan store in September.
A Nod to Fashion’s Past
Designs such as the lace-edged drop waist gown—a nostalgic nod to Sylvia’s 1966 debut—the striped dress, and a quilted leather banana shoulder dress evoked styles from the 1920s, 1950s, 1970s, and 1980s, respectively. “I appreciate the testimony of time,” Sylvia remarked, acknowledging her exposure to various decades while expressing restraint in reinterpreting trends. She emphasized that true beauty remains timeless. Ready-to-wear fitting at Fendi commenced in 1977, initiated by Karl Lagerfeld, and following his passing in 2019, Sylvia resumed leadership. Tonight’s collection not only captured the rich legacy of the family’s 100-year history but also stood out as a desirable seasonal showcase.
Future Generations of Creativity
If the experiences from this show resonate with Tazio and Dardo as profoundly as they did with Sylvia in 1966, the creative lineage of the Fendi family is sure to flourish for many decades to come.
