The New Look: A Fusion of Tradition and Modernity

A dapper man, characterized by short black hair, made an impression in a tailored ensemble that featured a collarless jacket crafted from ivory silk paired with crisp white trousers and a shirt. This look was complemented by mid-heeled black coat shoes and a distinctive Italian Tricolor belt adorned with the initials “AK,” a subtle nod to Andreas Kronthaler, Vivienne Westwood’s partner.

According to Kronthaler, the intent is clear: “We definitely want to start showing menswear again in Milan.” This statement marks a significant shift as the last dedicated Westwood menswear show was held under the Man label in June 2016, after which the collection was merged with the Red Ladieswear label and repositioned to London. Since 2019, Westwood men’s fashion has existed primarily through lookbooks and videos.

Redefining British Menswear Codes

The brand’s approach to traditional British menswear has often been to showcase these rigid symbols of class and status with a touch of humor and nuance. Westwood’s methodology has long included deconstructing and reinterpreting these codes, frequently extending them into women’s fashion as well. This exploration of gender roles reflects a deep-rooted homage to English culture, something that Westwood revels in while drawing inspiration from the dynamic atmosphere of Clapham South.

Character archetypes feature prominently throughout the collection, showcasing a man in unconventional attire, such as thongs, ready-made skirts, and snug-fitting Moleskine trousers, challenging traditional norms and aesthetics.

A Blend of Chaos and Craftsmanship

The collection’s diversity, described as “mixed chaos,” is accompanied by thoughtful craftsmanship evident in many pieces, such as tailored items made from Heritage Fabric like Harris Tweed. Kronthaler has incorporated unique elements, including knitted pieces with patch pockets, designed to look handcrafted despite their machine production.

In the segment focusing on Astrological Print Skiwear, the collection deviates from traditional tailoring. It showcases outfits that include mini-clinical dresses featuring twisted straps, along with striking brocade mini dresses and bold carpet cowl gowns, both culminating in thigh-high silhouettes. The overall presentation is reminiscent of the Westwood aesthetic while simultaneously introducing a dynamic new perspective, emphasized by the powerful AK branding.

Anticipation for Milan’s Showcase

The news regarding the return of Westwood’s menswear to Milan is invigorating for fans of the brand. As the fashion world eagerly awaits this presentation, the combination of innovative designs and a return to traditional shows signifies a promising future for menswear under the Westwood label.