A Reflection on a Decade of Design

Murakami recently showcased his latest collection in a spacious venue located in Tokyo’s Shimakawa district. With the anniversary of his brand Pilling, he reflected, “We paid close attention to techniques we couldn’t master, parts we couldn’t express well, and what we could do better. We also wanted to update rather than look back.”

Innovative Techniques and Unique Forms

This season’s collection includes deliberately shrunk knits that exemplify trust and unpredictability in the creative process. Murakami stated, “It’s something you can’t control, and you don’t know what will happen.”

The collection features a range of extraordinary pieces:

• A model wrapped in a covered blanket.
• A wrinkled cardigan designed with limited arm openings.
• A woven dress reminiscent of organic shapes, with a wavy hem.
• Knits adorned with multiple zip-up pockets that created a sense of garments overflowing from within.
• A grey dress that turned socks into an artistic remnant of laundry.
• Fair Isle sweaters with sleeves that either hung loosely or foamed across the torso.
• Designs featuring exaggerated neck holes and porous structures.

This collection evokes a visceral response with its shrunken knit textures, akin to those seen in the iconic 1997 Comme des Garçons collection, although it does not belong to the Rei Kawakubo brand.

Movement and Emotion in Fashion

Murakami collaborated with modern dancer un Yamada for movement guidance during the presentation. The models moved deliberately, sometimes holding their skirts or placing hands in provocative positions, contributing to a haunting atmosphere supported by ethereal music.

This fusion of knitwear and emotional movement showcased not only Murakami’s design prowess but also his ability to infuse depth into his creations, describing a designer capable of translating kindness into wearable art.

Beauty in Imperfection

One of the standout pieces in the collection was intended to resemble a castle, yet it organically transformed into what appeared as a “half-melt haunted house.” Highlighting this distortion, Murakami expressed, “I liked distortion. I think the attitude of going towards something is very important when making things.”

For Murakami, the charm lies in misfit aesthetics, believing that “naturalness has a lot of value,” as he integrates shapes that may not conform to traditional standards of beauty, instead echoing the contours of the heart.