Maria McManus is a designer who feels things deeply. Discouraged by the state of the world, she found solace and inspiration in a short poem by Emily Dickinson: Ms. McManus had never studied the American poet in school (“literally all the writers and poets we studied were men,” she recalled of her time studying abroad in Ireland), so she was inspired by Dickinson. Immersed myself in the world of, I finally came across a white dress that was once used. It belongs to the poet. “This is the only piece of clothing of hers they’ve found so far, and it’s really beautiful,” she said, showing an iPad photo. “The lace and embroidery details and pockets were really cute and everything was put together very thoughtfully. That was the inspiration for the collection.”
But the rack installed in my Tribeca apartment didn’t smell like Victoriana at all. Rather, she took the starting point as a way to continue her exploration of craft that began with her Spring 2025 collection. While lace is clearly the star, she based her creations on delicate fabrics and practical silhouettes. Easy pencil skirt with drawstring waist and delicate lingerie-like stitching detail; 3/4-length sleeve blouse with delicate cocoon inset at the back, creating geometric contrast through fabric overlays I did. This lace was also used on the chest of a series of very simple and eerily chic dresses inspired by vintage gowns, which were modernized once again through the use of fabric. These bodies are made from McManus’ favorite Nia Renew twill fabric (made from 60% recyclable materials) with a glossy finish and vintage silk roots. It features a heavy drape that gently drapes over the body without revealing anything. She also created groovy abstract prints from the negative space of lace, which she used on shirt dresses layered over pants like modern-day pajamas.
The electricity was delivered in a bold fuchsia hue that shocked the surroundings, and McManus seemed to enjoy it. There was a mod spirit to the short, structured shifts. McManus smartly paired it with khaki pants to create an effect that was more than cool. The designer often talks about offering “elevated basics,” and she nailed this season with her take on cotton T-shirts. It’s well-fitted, has flattering sleeves that don’t go all the way to the elbow, and is made from a cotton and naia blend. Update. The fabric is velvety and soft to the touch, except when you touch it. That’s the thing about McManus, she makes clothes that are great to live in, but the appeal lies in something more intangible. Like the time and effort spent finding the right materials. Even something as simple as a white T-shirt.
