Maria Cornejo is working on a large-scale archival project in her Brooklyn Navy Yard studio, combing through racks of clothes dating back to when she started designing for London label Richmond Cornejo in the late 1980s. are. Mr. Cornejo’s work has a cyclical quality. She often reimagines silhouettes from the past, but in her new Pre-Fall collection, a loose-fit shift with stand-up pleat details on the shoulders felt especially deep. “Everyone loves the ’80s,” she said during a showroom appointment, including Cornejo herself.
Other innovative shapes include full-leg, high-waisted pants with a diagonal front zipper, and a bubble skirt with a smocked waist and elasticated hem that lightly references the ’80s. But don’t mistake this for retro. Cornejo is focused on the here and now, which is why she is one of New York fashion’s standard-bearers for sustainable design. Summery and light as air, polyester has become her go-to fabric. This season, for the first time, she was able to source a partially recycled version. Every little thing counts.
Color is a big topic for her this season. Many of them remained on the racks and were not photographed for the lookbook, but the sunflower yellow, easy-to-wear V-neck dress in ripple gauze is featured in the look, as is Yves Klein’s ’80s shoulder dress. Trust me, it’s as vibrant as blue! One. Also striking are new navy and gold jacquards and a circa 2014 graphic print on silk, which Cornejo reissued using a digital inkjet process that produces less waste than traditional screen printing. please say it again. Every little thing matters.
